Tour du Mont Blanc

If there is one hike in Europe that should be on top of your bucket list, it’s The Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) and for a good reason. It is a beautiful roundtrip of the Mont Blanc Massif and you will cross 3 countries (France, Italy and Swiss) each with their own culture, habits, food and views to die for. But this trail is not for the faint hearted. With 10.000 meters of elevation gain spread out over 170 kilometers and the ever changing weather, it is advised to hike this trail when you are experienced.

That being said, we did not have (a lot) of experience and made it (almost) all the way around. Key is to prepare, make wise decisions and to talk to other hikers/ hosts of the huts about your next leg of the journey and the weather. 

Facts and figures

  • Distance (classic route): 170 kilometers

    Elevation gain (classic route): 10.000 meters

    Highest point (classic route): Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2.433 m)

    Stages: between 8-11 days for avarage hikers

    Stages: 4ish days for the athletic ones (there is even an ultra marathon)
    Starting point: Charmonix/ Les Houches but other cities are possible (Trient, Courmayeur etc.)

  • The TMB is the oldest Grande Randonnées of France and you can hike this trail in various ways. Hike the classic route with or without a guide and even bag transport or go back to basic, bring your tent and sleeping bag en expand your trail with extra peaks. You can hike both clockwise and counter clockwise and the trail is well marked both ways with white blazes and signs. Although the trail is tough in elevation gain, the terrain is easy and you do not need mountaineering skills.

    It is advisable to carry some sort of navigation with you, for example paper maps, GPX files on your phone or a navigation device.

  • This hike is your classic mountain hut or Gîtes d’étape tour.
    Small or bigger mountain huts offer:
    A place to sleep in big dormitories, smaller rooms or private rooms.
    Meals: dinner and breaksfast are usually included. For lunch you can buy a packed lunch, have lunch when you come across a hut or bring something yourself on trail.
    Showers: be aware that not all huts have (hot) showers. You need to bring your own towel and soap.

    In some huts you are not allowed to bring your own sleeping bag to prevent the spreading of bedbugs. Instead you can bring a liner. The TMB is a very popular hike so book your huts well in advance. It is forbidden to wildcamp in France, Swiss and Italy. Some huts do offer campingspots.

    These are the huts we stayed in:

    France
    1. Gite Michel Fagot | Les Houches
    2. Refugee Porcherey | Les Contamines Monjoye
    3. Refugee La Balme | Les Contamines
    4. Refugee des Mottets | Bourg Saint Maurice

    Italy
    5. Rifugio Maison Vieille | Courmayeur
    6. Refuge Walter Bonatti | Courmayeur

    Swiss
    7. Hotel Edelweis | La Fouly
    8. Relais d’ Arpette | Champex - Lac
    9. Auberge Mont blanc | Trient

    France
    10. Gite Le Moulin | Chamonix

    (11. Refuge Bellachat | Chamonix )

  • One of the perks of hiking the TMB is the food. Reservations in huts are usually including dinner and breakfast. The TMB attract hikers from all over the world so your conversation is just as versatile as the food. Dinner and breakfast are set menu’s, lunch packages are optional at an additional cost. Being in the mountains makes you hungry and that’s a good thing because there is nothing better than a homecooked meal after a long day outside.

    Breakfast usually consists of toast with jam, ham, cheese and other toppings, eggs, coffee, tea and some fruit.

    Dinner is a three course set menu with soup as a starter, potatoes with vegetables, salades and meat or cheese as the main dish and something sweet or cheese as dessert.

    We bought a lunch package every day and it included for example bars, candy, sandwiches, apples or bananas, pasta salade, soda’s, water etc.

    We took loads of snacks from home and did a quick resupply in a small supermarket in Courmayeur.

TRAIL STORIES

In 2019 my brother Koen asked me along on a fantastic Hike of the TMB. We started our trip in Les Houches, France, where we left the car and skipped the first (boring) part of the TMB by taking the cable car up the mountain. A wise decision because we over planned the first day, rookie mistake. A day with lots of ascending, descending, a suspension bridge, to many breaks and beautiful views. We arrived at the first hut exhausted. Luckily for us we were the only guests and they prepared a delicious meal for us. By the time the sun was setting we were in bed. 

The next day started early and bright with climbing the peak of mount jolly. With it’s 2525 meters a tough climb (especially after the first day). On top we had a spectaculair view over the Mont Blanc massif and the first glimpse of the Mont Blanc herself. The ridgewalk after the top was one of the most beautiful and rewarding hikes. This day also ended with a very late arrival at the hut. We were to late for a cold shower but just in time for a hot dinner. The dorm we stayed in had ten bunkbeds placed together which made for a true sleeping beauty kind of vibe.

Day 3 started, of course, in the early hours. We had a relatively easy day and after crossing the first cows, snow and mountain goats on trail, we arrived in the third hut in the afternoon. We ate, slept, ate again while enjoying some live music from a barrel organ and ended with a collective halleluja sung by the entire dining room.

At day 4 we crossed borders to Italy, with our new friends from Holland. It turned out they had kind of the same schedule and were fun to hang out with. This day was full of marmots with their high pitched sounds, swimming in freezing Alpine lakes, fields of rock scrambling and many steep climbs. That night we had dinner with a family of 5 from the states. The kids had chosen the TMB as their family holiday and had a great time. Very inspiring.

A full day of hiking in Italy at day five. We started with a descend into Courmayeur, the first town we came across on the TMB. Of course we resupplied with all the good trail snacks Italy had to offer. What followed was an ascent from hell (in my experience) out of Courmayeur. The previous days turned out to be pretty tough and my body and mind just gave up. Koen, my brother, gracefully emptied my pack and carried everything up the mountain. After this climb the trail became more gradual and late in the afternoon we arrived in hut number five with a gorgeous view over the mountains at sunset. After a delicious meal we went to bed but were waking up to a snoring person.

As we crossed borders into Swiss on day 6 we saw the landscape change from green into a more rocky terrain. It was a sunny day but very cold so we hiked in all of our layers of cloths. Just past midday we arrived in La Fouly. Unfortunately all the restaurants were closed so we bought lunch at the supermarket and took it to the river. Lunch at the river and soaking our tired feet in the freezing water was the best combination. That night we slept on mattresses on the floor at the attic with ten other hikers. 

Day 7 started in a rush, we needed to catch the bus to Praz the Fort. In this small town we started to climb over 1500 meters and by lunch time we had a well deserved view (they say the best views come after the hardest climbs, it’s true). To stick with the clichés, what goes up must come down. After a long climb we had to descend into the valley to reach the next hut. During this descend I got so tired that my body started to shake. This shaking made me a bit afraid whether I would make it down safely and that thought got stuck in my head. Luckily we found a restaurant that sold French fries, these where also stuck in my mind for about 4 days. More dead than alive we arrived at the hut were our Dutch friends were anxiously waiting for us with cold soda. 

The next day started slow, neither of us slept well because of a snoring person in our room. We packed our things and walked over to the dinning room where we stumbled upon a waiting line. There was no breakfast and the person who was responsible for it was no were to be found. Eventually we decided to eat some snacks and hike up the mountain. Halfway through the climb we encountered some rain and thunder and we had to hide as best as possible on this rocky mountain slope. On top of the mountain there was an interesting view over the gletsjer but we were more distracted by a hut in the distance. We heard stories of delicious food from hiker who we came across on trail. We run towards the hut and were greeted with salads and homemade cherie pies. Ofcourse we took both. In the afternoon we finally arrived in Trient, the city famous for the pink church. Koen we not feeling great because we skipped breakfast and lunch so he went to bed. Again the dinner was amazing and after that it was of to bed.

On day 9 we crossed borders back into France again. It was a beautiful climb with natural carved stairs and a lot of rocky hills. On top of the pass we had lunch at a hut and decended back in the vallei of Charmonix. We arrived at the hut where our Dutch friends were staying as well. Koen was on a mission to collect the most beautiful crocs (you are kindly asked to leave your dirty hiker shoes by the door and change into crocs or other shoes provided by the hut). His were pink with diamand studs on them. That night we had the best dinner on trail so far. Even the madeleines (sweet French cookies) were homemade. Outside the weather turned for the worse but inside it was cosy. We talked with the host about the next leg of the trail and taking into consideration that we were not that experienced in the mountains, he advised against going up. 

Day 10 turned out to be the last day on trail. Although we were a bit sad we could not finish the last 2 days, we decided to walk back to Les Houches to complete a continuous footpath. It was pouring rain all day and we were happy we did not go up the mountain. In the afternoon we were back at the car, drove back to Charmonix and went out for pizza. That night we celebrated the hike with wine and a nice glass of Genepi (a French Liquor).